Rudder Fairing

The August ‘95 RV-ator shows Oz Beckham’s method of cutting the leading edge of the rudder fairing and re-attaching it with small screws. As always there are several techniques and options that can give good results. Here is a variation on Oz’s method that builders may find beneficial. Be very inventive with the use of squares and straight-edges and mark the control horn (aluminum angle) cuts in the fairing. See Photo 1. Also mark the leading edge cut. Carefully cut the leading edge off and cut the horizontal (almost) slots. Also, now is the time to install any nuts for the tail light. I bonded mine in with structural epoxy.

Photo 1. Mark lines to cut and trim leading edge off fairing.

Install the fairing. Perform the usual filing and sanding to get it to fit as desired. Drill the fairing to the aluminum lip of the rudder (Photo 2). Also install a support stick just below the control horn angle. Size the stick so that it spreads the fairing to the desired shape. Use a dab of body filler at each end of the stick. The stick is barely visible in Photo 2. Look ahead to Photo 3 for a better view.

Photo 2. Drill fairing to rudder and bond in support stick.

Chamfer the inside surface of the leading edge piece where it meets the fairing. Do the same for the fairing. This is where some strips of fiberglass will be laid-up to join the two together.

Photo 3. Countersink holes in fairing and chamfer joint line.

Pop rivet the fairing to the rudder. I used some structural epoxy between the fairing and the aluminum to make the installation more permanent (Photo 4). Do the same for the leading edge piece.

Photo 4. Pop rivet fiberglass pieces. Use clamps to "shape" flexible parts.

Since the fiberglass will flex to a new shape when riveted, the leading edge piece and the fairing must be re-aligned. Use small clamps and scraps of aluminum to accomplish this. Bond small sticks between the clamps so that the fairing and leading edge piece become connected. When cured remove the clamps (Photo 5).

Photo 5. Bond sticks and remove clamps.

Tape over or remove the rod-end bearing. Carefully lay-up 3-4 fiberglass strips on the inside surface along the cut. Once fully cured, remove the temporary support sticks and fill in the cut line with low density filler. Cut and sand the fiberglass opening to match the geometry on the opposite side of the rod-end (Photo 6).

Photo 6. Lay-up fiberglass inside leading edge, remove sticks, fill joint line, and trim opening.